Mooring Post

A mooring post used on the concrete wall at Oakland, Cal. – from – Wharves and piers: their design, construction, and equipment pg. 189 pub 1917. 1

When I looked at the dimensions of the concrete footing I realized that the ones I had created for my scene were smaller. The ones in the drawing are 4 ft. square at the base tapering up to where the bollard flange is bolted down. That flange is 3 ft. on a side. That’s 3/4 in. in O scale and I measured my concrete footings and found they were 5/8 in. Okay .. soooo .. with that in mind I rescaled the original so the bollard flange would have about a 1 in. (0.020 in) smaller then the top of the concrete footing.

I have the bollards for sale on Shapeways … shown here on my website. Shapeways seems to constantly change ‘stuff’ .. so I would appreciate any problems related back to me so I can correct them.

1:48 30″ Bollard – Ver 2
1:87 30″ Bollard – Ver 2


So. I re-sized the bollard in Fig. 128 so that the flange changed from 36 in. to 28.320 in. Yeah .. that is a *funny* number. In o scale that is 0.590 in. .. or 0.035 in. under 5/8 in. .. the size of the tops of my concrete footings. That’s simply so that a bit of concrete shows around the flange when the thing is mounted.
In any case the bollard will be a bit more substantial then the originals.

Since to get to this point I had created a 3D model .. I went ahead and rendered a quick view of the bollard.

One of the things I love to do is render the models I create in Kerkythea. This is an open source (free) rendering program that if you take the time can create some quite remarkable renders. This one is simply done using the native rendering engine in Sketchup .. quite adequate in most instances.

Bits and Pieces

I turned the bollard from aluminum and cut the base plate from styrene. I would have rathered ‘played’ with brass but I need some brass stock to do that.

I once lived in Houston, TX and there you could find anything. If you needed brass rod and sheet you could find a place to purchase it which was pretty cool (other that the distances that might be involved). Not so much where I live ..

Once everything was assembled I decided the rod I used for pads was too small so I came back with some 1/8″ disks punched from .020″ sheet. I added some NBW and used some spot putty to add a bit of radius here and there and then painted the entire thing with Reaper Old Bronze.

Honestly .. while the ‘doing’ was fun .. I much prefer drawing the thing up in 3D CAD and having it printed .. which I did ‘after the fact’.

Posing for a photo

The bronze was followed by a heavy’ish dry brushing of oily steel and then a wash of brown oil paint. Here, they are just sitting for the photo – not glued down yet. I may (or not) add some additional color.

Played around a bit with the color. It was pointed out to me that bollards would most likely be of cast iron rather then bronze (I STILL like the LOOK of bronze) –


It was pointed out that there wasn’t much to keep the cement block from being pulled out – like a tooth from a socket. Made sense .. so I thought about it a bit. If I were to fix this I would anchor the block. This means that I can add bolts to the front of the concrete footing.
I figure that in “real life” I would do it much like this. In any case, seems like a “good nuff” fix for the problem.


I used Tichy Train Group #8143 Nut Bolt Washers. For O scale they represent a 6″ sq. washer with a 2.5″ nut.
This is the far left bollard.

The far right bollard.
  1. Wharves and piers: their design, construction, and equipment, by Carleton Greene, Pub 1917, pg. 189[]

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